*credit to a historical fanatic 洛梅笙 and 春梅狐狸@weibo*
I love the costuming of BuBu straightly on the pretty sto my modern eyes and the amazing top notch embroidery work. The thought and poetry went into the design and detailing makes me weep in joy, but yes, it’s TV and there’s no way it’s historically accurate, at least I don’t really care/know too much for it to bother me, unless it’s so jawdroppingly stupid as in YZ’s Goong.
But it does shock me how ‘time traveling’ and glossed up things are, even in BuBu.
It must be a landmine to navigate, pondering what to wear in those days (and really, seeing ANY paintings and later real photos of days back then, it killed any fancy of time traveling) If I were a Han Chinese, I’ll be heavily influenced by the lingering Ming vogue, yet there must be strict political alterations enforced to adapt as much (or as little) to the Manchurian style. It’s much more drastic in the guys, but still….there were accounts of girls shaving the more than half bald chic till they are of age *sweating bullets*
Just to pour an Antarctic of freezing ocean towards the fancying of the HOTTT Princes, the half bald Qing braid is of a much later variety, (later Qing, more hair unshaved). Early Qing guys sported an almost entirely bald do with a tiniest braid sometimes in the middle of the back of head (it’s literally called a rat’s tail). I’m not a Manchurian, so I really dunno WHY this is attractive no matter what period of time we’re talking and how on earth they land brides.
兩把頭/Manchurian Do is basically what Princess Leia stole her inspiration, at least the mid Qing style. It consisted of braiding the hair on each side, forming a ‘cross’ dead center at the back and a very tight ‘swallow tail’ in the back with a tilt up….constricting the head to very subtle/’aristocratic’ movements. The side buns started naturally hanging like sideburns next to the ears, evolving to more elaborate protrusions secured by ornaments closer to the top of the head, and much more horizontal, usually involving fake hair. IF u r interested in a tutorial of how to braid your own: http://hi.baidu.com/zhouhui6595/blog/item/7f5d8816e8241153f2de3243.html
Top left: QianLong period Top Rt: DaoGuang period (mid Qing, mid 1800s), Bottom left: early Qing. Rt is RuoXi. *yes, not historically accurate at all*
It’s not till mid Qing that 大拉翅 (the flat fanlike black ornament) appeared. It’s a ‘hat’ secured on top of the 兩把頭, up to a foot tall, sometimes the hair was worked into it. Structurally it’s a metal wire frame with black silk coverings. Ornaments such as flowers and jewelery are stuck on in front, with jeweled tassels spicing up the sides. The following collage followed the time line with the paintings fr early Qing (top rt is KangXis’ rule) to mid Qing to 1912.
A real late Qing ‘Princess’ ( a cousin of PuYi’s empress):
The Han Chinese and the non-aristocratic Manchurian have a different dress code.
Chronologically evolving fr top L: Shunzhi (KangXi’s Dad), R: KX, 2nd row: YongZheng (ie what LuWu should dress alike); QianLong; third row: JiaQing, DaoGuang (~1800-1850); Bottom fr L: TongZhi, GuangXu, very late Qing….and LuWu
Then for the Imperial maids, ie RX for the middle bulk of BuBu, the dress code was very spare and boring, they had a simple braid at the back as opposed to any bun. They are only allowed TWO colors for the 4 seasons. Pale green for Spring/Summer, dull violet for Autumn/Winter.
And Erica, you asked about the layering. Actually it varied on the occasion and social status, but one thing certain, The outermost layer, the氅衣, is not shortened by the sleeves for the purpose of ‘showing’ the inner layers, and the layers have no strict numbers, in BuBu, we’re shown mostly 3, but rather it’s lavishly embroidered inside and the sleeves may be turned up showing the detailing.
And TBH how the clothes are cut, the collaring and the number of buttons have very strict rules, what’s shown in Bubu was more Ming style (early Qing clothes had no collar), softened up and back in vogue in late Qing. This number RX wore mourning KX, which I adore, would cause him to spit blood, twist and turn in his grave. And yes, those prettiest romantic furry hooded cloaks she and Prince8 wore should never have the hood and should be collarless capes.